Stain on an upstairs plaster ceiling
Water from a roof or a supply line can soak a plaster ceiling from above. The ceiling is read across its full area, because the wet zone often reaches the corners and the wall tops.
Water in plaster over wood or metal lath, read through the wall cavity and dried before any plaster is kept, patched or removed.
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Plaster over wood lath holds water in its base coat and carries it sideways along the lath, so a small stain can hide a wall that is soaked from the floor to the ceiling. In Hammond this matters most in houses built before the newer wall assemblies, where the plaster is thick and the cavity is hard to reach. The readings decide what can be kept.
A plaster wall that has taken water rarely looks as bad as it is. The finish coat may show a stain or a crack, and the wet base coat behind it can hold water for a long time. The lath under the plaster holds some of it too, and the water runs along the strips before it finds a gap or a stud bay to drop into.
Older Hammond houses commonly have plaster over wood lath on the upper floors and in the older parts of the basement. That construction was built to last, and it still does, but it does not dry like drywall. A wall that is closed up while its cavity is still wet will hold the moisture for months, and the plaster will show the damage later as a stain or a bulge.
The technician reads the plaster before anything is decided. Moisture readings at the surface and behind the plaster, a thermal camera and, where needed, a small inspection opening show how far the water has travelled. The plan is set from those readings, and the plaster is kept, patched or removed according to what they show.
Plaster dust from a damaged wall can irritate the eyes and lungs. Keep the room closed off while plaster is opened, wear a mask and eye protection, and do not sweep dry plaster dust; wet it first.
Water from a roof or a supply line can soak a plaster ceiling from above. The ceiling is read across its full area, because the wet zone often reaches the corners and the wall tops.
Rain or meltwater that runs down the outside of a masonry or frame wall can soak the plaster from the inside. The lower wall and the sill are the most common readings to stay high.
Older basement walls with plaster over block or stone hold water in the masonry itself. The drying takes longer, and the readings are taken at the wall and at the floor line.
A crew is dispatched as fast as one is available, and you approve the estimate before any work starts.
Often, yes, when the plaster is sound and the readings return to the dry goal. Plaster that has lost its bond to the lath, or that has softened, is removed.
Plaster is more forgiving than many people expect. A base coat that held water for a few days and then dried will often keep its strength, especially on an interior wall where the lath is still tight. The finish coat may need to be patched, and the paint will need to be redone, but the wall itself stays.
The test is whether the plaster still holds to the lath. A soft spot that gives under a fingertip, a bulge that moves, or a crack that opens wider after drying is a sign the bond has failed. Those areas are removed and the lath behind them is dried before any new plaster goes on.
The base coat is thick and dense, and the air space behind the lath is small. Water that gets in does not leave quickly, and it can stay for weeks in a closed wall.
A plaster base coat of the older type was built in several layers, each of them with its own water content. Once that water is in, it moves slowly, and it is absorbed by the lath and the stud behind. The surface can dry in a day while the coat behind it stays wet for a week or longer.
The house's age also matters. Balloon framing and wide plank subfloors leave long, open cavities behind the walls, and water can travel along them to a floor or a room further from the leak. The readings are taken across the cavity, not only where the stain is.
The wall or ceiling should be photographed before anything is opened, and each opening should be recorded with its location and the reading that prompted it.
A plaster record is the evidence of what the wall looked like at the start and what it looked like after drying. Photographs from several angles, a note of the readings and a sketch of the openings give the insurer and the repair contractor what they need to make decisions without repeating the work.
Keep any plaster or lath that was removed until the insurer has seen it or has said in writing that it can go. If it is sent to a skip, the record should say where and when.
Lath that is still sound after drying is cleaned of loose plaster and sealed where the wall is to be closed, which gives the new coat a firmer key. The sealing is done only once the readings are dry, because sealing a damp lath traps moisture behind the new finish.
Repair is a separate stage. Plaster patching, skim coating or board replacement is quoted by the trade that does that work, after the drying readings are complete.
A small area of lifted plaster is often patched by a plasterer, and a larger area may need the lath replaced and the base coat rebuilt. Where drywall is used to replace plaster, the boards are fixed to the framing and taped, and the paint is matched to the surrounding wall. The restoration record says which areas were dried and which were removed.
A repair is best done after the readings have been dry for the full period in the plan. Closing a wall early is the most common reason plaster cracks again within the first year.
Meters are used on the finish coat and then on the base coat, where a probe or a small opening is needed. The readings show whether the water is in the surface only, in the plaster or in the lath behind it.
A thermal camera shows the cooler, wetter areas of the wall and ceiling. Its image is compared with the meter readings, and the two together show the edge of the wet zone.
Where the readings stay high, a small opening is made in the plaster, low on the wall, so the cavity can be seen and air can reach the stud bay. The opening is kept as small as the readings allow.
Air is moved through the stud bay and across the lath until the readings in the cavity reach the dry goal. The opening is closed only after that, and the closing is recorded.
Plaster that has held water but shows no soft spot or bulge is often kept and sealed. Plaster that has lifted from the lath, or that is soft and crumbles, is removed, and that decision is made with the owner after the readings.
Plaster over wood lath is still common in older Hammond, Highland and Munster houses, and the wall construction holds water longer than a modern drywall wall.
Where older houses have had their ceilings lowered or their walls furred out, the cavity behind the new finish can hold water from an earlier leak, which the readings sometimes reveal.
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Water that gets under the roof edge in winter and comes through the ceiling, traced to the attic and the wall, then dried.
Controlled air movement and dehumidification that run until the wall, floor and framing readings reach their dry goal.
Mold concerns after water damage, handled by drying the wet materials and asking clear questions about who does any testing or removal.
Water from a frozen, split or cracked supply line, traced through the wall and the floor, then extracted and dried.
Mold grows on wet building materials that stay wet for long enough, so the most effective step after a water loss is drying the materials to their goal.
Permit questions for repairs in Lake County go to the city or town building department where the house sits, not to a county office.
Sometimes. Plaster that is still bonded to the lath and dries to its dry goal can often stay. Soft or lifting plaster is removed, and the readings decide which case applies.
Water still in the base coat or the lath can push the stain through new paint. The wall was closed before it was dry, and the readings show whether that is the cause.
Only the areas that have lost their bond or are soft. Most walls that have been properly read and dried keep their plaster, though the paint and the surface are often redone.
There may be, if the wall stayed wet for a long time. The drying plan and the readings are the way to tell, and the mold section explains what to ask before any testing.
As small as the readings allow. The opening is usually low on the wall, and it is closed once the cavity is dry and recorded.
It is good practice to let the insurer know before walls are opened, and to photograph the wall first. Where an opening is needed to dry the cavity, it is kept small, recorded and shown in the photographs, so the insurer can see why it was made.